How to Choose a 3D Printer: A Buyer's Guide
Contents
The answer to "Which printer should I buy?" comes from the answer to "What will I print?" The right printer for small figures can be the wrong one for someone who wants to print boxes and brackets. If you are new, an FDM printer with automatic bed leveling that is widely used and has easy-to-find spare parts will make things easiest.
This guide does not recommend a particular brand or model. Models change quickly, so we explain the criteria to look at when you choose.
1. What will you print?
| What you want to print | Suitable technology |
|---|---|
| Brackets, boxes, spare parts, prototypes | FDM |
| Large parts, costumes, scale models | Large-volume FDM |
| Miniatures, figures, jewelry models | Resin (MSLA) |
| Flexible parts | FDM, direct drive |
| Heat-resistant parts | Enclosed FDM |
For a detailed comparison of the two technologies, see FDM vs resin 3D printers.
2. Build volume
Build volume is the dimensions of the largest part the printer can print (width × depth × height).
- Most entry-level printers have a volume of about 180–256 mm per side. That is enough for most home and hobby work.
- Large-volume printers cost more, take up more space and are harder to level because the bed is bigger.
- Big parts can be split and joined, so you do not always need the biggest printer you can get.
3. Automatic bed leveling
First-layer problems are the most common issue beginners run into. An automatic leveling system (a sensor or load cell) measures the shape of the bed and compensates for small warps.
- It is a very useful convenience for beginners.
- Even with the system, you need to know how to set the Z offset.
- Learning manual leveling is not hard either: Bed leveling.
4. Extruder type
- Direct drive: The motor sits on the toolhead. It is far better with flexible filament (TPU) and needs less retraction.
- Bowden: The motor sits on the frame and the toolhead is lighter. It struggles with flexible filament.
If you plan to print flexible parts, choose a direct drive model.
5. Motion system and speed
- Moving bed (bed slinger): The bed moves back and forth. It is simple and common. Vibration grows at very high speeds.
- CoreXY: The bed moves only up and down while the toolhead moves in X and Y. It is usually faster and more stable and suits an enclosure.
The top speeds in ads are mostly measured under ideal conditions. Real print speed is limited by how much plastic the hotend can melt and by quality. Features like input shaping let you raise speed without giving up quality. See Ghosting and ringing.
6. Enclosure
- PLA and PETG do not need an enclosure.
- ABS, ASA and nylon almost require one. See the ABS printing guide.
- An enclosure reduces noise, keeps dust out and adds some safety around pets and children.
- You can add a tent or enclosure to an open printer later.
7. Build surface
A magnetic, removable spring steel PEI plate is the most practical choice today. You flex the plate to pop parts off. Glass beds are flat, but parts are harder to remove.
8. Software and connectivity
- Make sure the printer works with common slicers (Cura, PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer, Bambu Studio).
- Wi-Fi, a camera and remote monitoring are handy, but check whether a cloud connection is required and whether the printer can be used over the local network.
- Printers with open-source firmware (Marlin, Klipper) give you more access to settings. Closed-ecosystem printers usually work out of the box with fewer settings to touch.
9. Spare parts and community
Parts like the nozzle, hotend, build plate and fans get replaced over time. Ask yourself about the printer:
- Are spare parts easy to buy where you live?
- Is the user community and its resources (guides, forums, videos) large?
- What are the warranty and technical support like?
Finding online fixes for a popular model's problems is far easier.
10. Safety features
- Thermal runaway protection: Stops the printer if the heater goes out of control. Do not buy a printer without it.
- Filament sensor: Pauses the print when the filament runs out.
- Power loss recovery: Tries to resume where it left off if the power goes out.
- A quality power supply and conformity marks such as CE.
Budget plan
The printer's price is only part of the starting cost. Include:
- 2–3 spools of filament.
- A spare nozzle and cleaning needle.
- A scraper, flush cutters, a hobby knife and calipers.
- Isopropyl alcohol.
- A filament storage box and silica gel. See How to dry filament.
Checklist
| Criterion | Suggestion for a beginner |
|---|---|
| Technology | FDM |
| Build volume | About 200 mm is enough |
| Leveling | Automatic |
| Extruder | Direct drive preferred |
| Bed | Magnetic PEI plate |
| Enclosure | Yes if you will print ABS/ASA |
| Safety | Thermal runaway protection is a must |
| Support | A common model with easy spare parts |
Is it sensible to start with a cheap printer?
A cheap printer can be good for learning, but if it needs a lot of tweaking and maintenance it can kill your motivation. Choosing a model within your budget that has basic conveniences, such as automatic leveling and a reliable extruder, is usually a better start.
Kit or assembled?
Kit printers are cheap and teach you how a printer works, but assembly mistakes can cause problems. If you want to start printing quickly, choose an assembled or partly assembled model.